Paul Gaultier's mixed lineup of kilts, prints, pants and jackets needed a little dose of editing.
Design elements ran the gamut from brick-wall print pants to camouflage knits to his signature floor-sweeping kilts. Sometimes the eclectic mix worked, particularly when the designer contrasted traditionally luxe pieces with streetwear. One tuxedo jacket had corduroy lapels instead of silk, for example. But the looks that layered a cacophony of prints and textures — as in Medusa-print pants paired with a tweedy overcoat — were overkill.
The designer’s eclectic cast of models — who sported flowing tresses, dreadlocks or curled moustaches — underlined the collection’s devil-may-care spin through every persuasion of men’s wear.
"They are not little kids," smiled Gaultier backstage, when asked about his cast of models -- at odds with the frail, pink-cheeked types favoured by many of his contemporaries.
The designer described the collection as "a mix of the dandy universe and streetwear, because today's dandys like graffiti."