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Dolce & Gabbana Men's RTW Fall 2012

In their fall 2012 men’s collection shown on Saturday, Jan. 14, the Sicilian duo (Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana) went back to their roots on the Mediterranean island sending out a hyper polished, ornately finished take on modern gentlemen’s attire.Models walked briskly down the catwalk to recordings of Luciano Pavarotti blasting out Verdi arias, including “La donna e’ mobile” from “Rigoletto.” It was enough to put the audience in a mood for high drama, which is just what this charming — if at times overwrought — collection delivered.

Jackets and coats came with velvet lapels and buttons; voluminous cape coats swooshed around models’ legs, and gold braiding and filigree embroidery wove their way onto trousers, capes, shearling jackets, and coats. Dandyish silk foulards were tied in a bow at the neck, and printed silk pajama trousers swooshed from under gray overcoats. The gold and flourish recalled the duo’s Napoleon-inspired collection from fall 2006.

There was a counterpoint to all the sparkle: The duo also sent out jackets with distressed, rough edges, coats that were artfully rumpled, and worn-looking bits of velvet on jackets for a cozy, lived-in vibe that is proving a major trend for fall. Before the show, the designers said they were responding to a mood among the youths of today. “The clothes have to have a history — it’s not about being retro, but they have to have had their own life. It’s about memories, familiarity — it’s comforting,” said Dolce. “The new generations want it, because novelty can be scary.”



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